Don’t rush out to your nearest Safeway or put an order in to Sysco. That oft lamented piece of meat is not here yet but sooner than later it will be, possibly by years end. This, the maximum assault on the organic front by science and ranchers will not go unchallenged.

Cloning is the production of a life form from the original without going through the sexual stage of reproduction. It produces an exact copy rather than a genetic 50% mix. There are several techniques but the results are to produce and identical match from the original.

Parent Navel Tree

Cloning in plants has been around for decades. All the navel oranges have been reproduced from one original tree. In your garden when you take a sucker from a plant and root it that is a form of cloning. It produces a plant genetically identical to its parent.

Geneticist Van Eencennaam with Cloned Calf

When we move up the life form ladder to animals it gets a little more complicated but in actuality is the same principle. Of course we ourselves being an animal makes cloning scary and to many “meddling with our makers plans or nature”. But in reality life is life whether it is a plant or animal. We meddle all the time as with abortion and seem to adjust to the moral and natural issue when it suits us.

The process that is commonly used to produce cloned beef cattle is called somatic cell nuclear transfer. This is harvesting eggs from slaughtered animals then matured or started in a Petri dish in a lab. The slaughtered animals DNA is extracted and the DNA of the preferred animal is put in its place. This DNA is harvested from a live animal you wish to replicate. The egg produces an embryo and you’re on your way to a calf of the exact characteristics you have selected to reproduce. For twenty years or more similar techniques have been used to fertilize eggs in vitro and splitting them to produce twins, triplets and quadruplets along with clones of animal embryos in vitro. Animals produced in this manner are already in the food chain. This is not genetic engineering which is going into the DNA threads and replacing or altering individual genes. The FDA last year declared this cloning to be safe and no special label needed.

Champion Chianina Bull Full Flush

The cloned meat was provided by Collins Cattle ranch of Frederick, Oklahoma and was the cloned offspring of the prized animal Full Flush. The process is to produce cloned calves and from them produce offspring by normal insemination which is slaughtered for meat. The cloned animal itself is only used for breeding as it costs about $15,000 to produce. What this actually does is replicates Full Flush so more production can be obtained as the old boy only has so much semen.

Chef Peel

The test is in the eating. Cloned meat was recently tested at Champanile with Executive Chef Mark Peel doing the honors after Spago’s chef Lee Hefter at the last moment changed his mind and declined to host the test dinner.

Chef Peel

The test dinner consisted of cloned porterhouse steaks and ground beef patties paired off with regular prime identical cuts and ground beef in a blind test. The platters were marked simply A and B. The meat was prepared identical with fleur de sal and cracked black pepper and pan seared to medium rare in a little canola oil. The dinner started out with camelized onion tarts with feta cheese. The accompaniments of the steaks and ground beef were roasted fingerling potatoes, roasted carrots, sautéed blue-footed and hedgehog mushrooms and early spring English peas. Desserts were chocolate tart with chocolate-cocoanib ice cream and chocolate sauce. The wines served were Malvasia prosecco-style sparkling wine from Medici Ermete and Domaine Tempier Bandol 2003.


Dinner Guests

The guest list consisted of Berry Glassner author of “The Gospel of Food; Everything You Think You Know About Food is Wrong” and a college professor. Huell Howser a television travel host. Gregg Jaffee of the Center for Science in Public Interest. Evan Kleiman Host of “Good Food” and chef at Angeli Caffe, Mark Peel executive chef of Campanile, Alison Van Eenennaam geneticist, Leslie Brenner Los Angeles Times food editor, Ashley Dunn Los Angeles Times science editor, Betty Hallock Los Angeles Times Assistant food editor and Karen Kaplan Los Angeles Times writer. I find it sad that the scientists and writers totally outnumbered the one chef but taste and enjoying food is not the sole province of us chefs.

And the winner is: cloned beef. Not one could tell the difference. Chef Peel liked B better which turned out to be the cloned steak but could not pick it out blind as the cloned steak.

In the written commentary about the event I find more is said and thought about the appearance of science invading the farm and food chain than the actual results. Cloned beef is not better or worse than the prime beef we now produce but is more consistent. Taste and marbling is a function only in part to the genetic parent. The method of raising the animal imparts a great deal to the potential of the animal.

As a chef who also worked years for Dole Philippines, producing cloned pineapple (suckers), cloned cassava (stalks), cloned citrus (buds) and dumped tons of chemicals on all of them I hope I can see both sides of the argument. For those who can afford natural produced food of low volume and high cost, enjoy. But for the masses that need affordable food of good safe quality and quantity, the science minded farmer is the man. I support organic food, whole food and slow food producers. They have a place and a demand. But and it is a big but they can never fill the needs of the general population here or worldwide.

There are economies worldwide where eighty percent of income is spent on food and that of low quality. Our harvest of wild fish will go the way of the buffalo and passenger pigeon if we are not careful. Conservation is a science not a fad or religion. It must be used to understand and better all life on this planet not to fence off progress. Man is part of the environment. He does not stand outside of it looking over the fence. So I say “where’s the beef”?

Photo credits Los Angeles Times, Chicago Tribune